The rain beating on Sundown’s canvas biminy sounds like a rolling snare drum. As gale and storm force winds blow through Hecate Strait, we’re nestled in Gordon Cove on Moresby Island surrounded by forests and snowcapped peaks. A curious seal pops up to look around at visiting boats—ours, Chris’ (our boating buddy) and a couple others, also here to hide from the weather outside, I’m sure.
Before sailing west in Cumshewa Inlet to this cozy cove, we visited Skedans or K’uuna llinagaay in the Haida language, one of five sites staffed by native Watchmen guides. Deedee (a.k.a. Carol Crosby or Gitin Jaad, which means Eagle Woman), her husband and granddaughter greeted us. They were busy putting away a two-week supply of groceries they’d received from a provisioning boat when we arrived and called via VHF radio asking permission to come ashore. (Only 12 people at a time are allowed at Watchmen village sites.) Once permission was granted, Deedee gave us a tour of the ancient Haida village, with its 20-30 moss-covered longhouse remnants and totems of all variety—frontal, mortuary and memorial. Sometimes, memorial poles included potlatch rings denoting the number of potlatch events a chief hosted (see the glossary at the bottom for definitions of all of these).
With pride and enthusiasm, Deedee shared history passed down from her grandmother and grandfather, who once was chief of the village’s eagle clan; her youngest brother is now chief. Deedee also shared a lesson in yah’guudang she learned from her grandfather: “to treat all four leggeds and especially two leggeds with respect because they may be related to you, they may be your brothers and sisters.”
K’uuna Llinagaay, thrived until “contact,” when the white man arrived with his diseases (e.g., small pox and measles), alcohol and money-making schemes, like fur trapping and logging. I fight against feeling ashamed to be a pasty white Anglo American, distantly related, if only by skin color, to those men. Before contact in the 1700s, the Haida population may have been as many as 25,000; about 300 to 400 remained by the late 1800s.
I also feel a need to apologize for the Christian missionaries who came here to share Jesus’ love, which they did by telling the Haida their practices were evil and then proceeding to strip away their culture. Many totem poles, which to this day are family heirlooms, were burned and/or cut down and floated to sea. Haida children were forced to go to “residential schools” where they weren’t permitted to speak their native tongue, one that linguistic preservationists now are working hard to record before it’s lost forever. (The video below shows Donna teaching us a few words in Haida. I like the “feisty woman” word, but have NO idea how to spell it.) Natives were given Christian names, too, because their original ones were offensive to God…I guess.
I’m a Christian, and while I don’t like to be called “religious” because I don’t feel I am, I have a solid faith based on Biblical teachings. In my understanding, those teachings include treating others as I want to be treated. I also believe one day the connectedness between world religions will be revealed. God gave me a glimpse of that connectivity while we toured the museum in Skidegate after attending the required intro presentation (basically about the rules of the Gwaii Hanaas, like “Leave only footprints, take only photos.”).
The separation of light from darkness was mentioned on a display about creation. A flood that covered the earth and then receded was on another. A woman giving birth to “The One Who is to be Obeyed” was explained on yet another display. Hmmm. Sounds familiar. So WWJD if he visited Haida Gwaii? I don’t believe he’d destroy The People’s lives and ways. He’d love them.
I tried to exude that during our visits to all the Watchmen we met at the sites we visited (we visited all but Hotspring Island due to time limitations). To Ken and Vince on T’aanuu LInagaay (Tanu), to Walter and Morgan at Windy Bay (HIk’yah GawGa) on Lyell Island, and to Donna on SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Each Watchman provided their unique stories and perspectives about their heritage, enriching our understanding of indigenous Haida (The People).
The wind picked up during our Skedans tour, chilling Deedee and I down to the bones. She invited me back to her cabin for a cup of tea, even though new visitors were out in the bay waiting their turn to come ashore. Deedee said they could wait. Tea comes first. She also spoke aloud what I was sensing—that she felt a connection between us, something she said is rare among all the visitors she greets. I was honored, and enjoyed the warmth that spread through my body and soul from her words and the cup of tea I sipped. Then Deedee and I embraced goodbye.
Glossary:
Frontal pole – an identifying carved totem that told a family’s history and served as the front door to their home. A hole large enough for a person to crawl or crouch down and go through was at the base of frontal poles.
Mortuary pole – a hollowed out cedar pole decorated with symbols into which a bentwood box containing a person’s remains was placed.
Memorial pole – a pole carved to honor someone who died, but whose body is lost (perhaps at sea).
Potlatch – A potlatch was a public ceremony and/or celebration with many people attending who would “witness” the event. The ceremony naming a new chief or celebration of a birth is an example of a potlatch. Guests weren’t allowed to bring anything to contribute to potlatch feasts. Rather, the chief would give gifts to every guest. Giving away possessions was/is a symbol of wealth. The more you give away, the wealthier you are.
Fascinating! I very much enjoy reading about your adventures and learn history and about sailing too. Thanks for posting these.
We appreciate the feedback and will try to keep it interesting. Thanks for following our adventure!
So great you two. Love, love, love reading these sailing stories. What cool places we find ourselves when we only follow the wind.
Indeed!
Fascinating! Thanks for all the information and great pics!