Editor’s Note: This blog is longer than we prefer, but so much has happened since our last post. If you don’t want to read every word, we hope you enjoy all the photos we’ve included and get the gist of what we’ve been up to.
Winter in the San Juan Islands tends to be windy. We listen to the weather forecast everyday on the VHF and monitor the conditions on nifty apps like Wind Alert, because the weather is so critical to our travel plans. Should we stay or should we go? Either way, it’s prudent to know what we’re getting ourselves into. The NOAA forecasts are very detailed and we’ve noticed that the announcers use specific terms we’re paying more attention to. When they say it’s going to be “breezy,” sailing should be good. When they say it’s going to be “windy”, sailing is even better, but usually means we’ll be heeling over enough to start reducing sail area. When they say “very windy,” we find somewhere to hide. I have to admit I used to look forward to sailing when it was “very windy,” but either age (a sense of mortality?) or the fact that I sail my home, not some recreational toy, has changed my desire for that much excitement.
Wet Willy
We had our official second visitor. One of our sons, Blake (sometimes we affectionately call him by his nickname, “Willy,” given to him because of he’s strong willed) joined us for five days. Unfortunately, we only managed to enjoy one day of sailing while he was here. As you might guess, some days it’s not that there is too much wind, but sometimes there’s really not enough wind to efficiently move this 30,ooo pound vessel, so we motor. If someone’s out for a sail with no destination or cruising beyond the range of the diesel fuel he carries, then bobbing around at one to two knots is fine, but there are a lot of times when the motor is what propels you to your next exotic destination. This was the case for Blake and his first day on the water in Sundown.
The first day we were together, we circumnavigated the City of Bellingham on foot at least three times as we mostly window shopped, but also picked a few items on the shopping list, like used books and guitar strings. That evening, Blake’s friend Frank and his girlfriend, Sarah, (both from Linden, WA, just up the road) met us at Boundary Bay Brewery for dinner. Good food, good brew and good times!
The next morning, we headed out of Bellingham Bay and immediately hoisted the sails, but the wind quickly died and left us motoring the 20+ miles to our planned moorage on Jones Island. The next day, we hopped over to Deer Harbor to introduce Blake to our friends there (a quick 20- to 30-minute motoring trip) and enjoyed a wonderful potluck. That night on the hook was calm and good for sleeping. Blake’s third day onboard was “windy.” We turned the helm over to Blake and he sailed the entire day till we dropped anchor in Blind Bay on Shaw Island. He pushed Sundown a little harder than we care to, but he was having fun, so went with it. Once we knew the anchor was secure in Blind Bay, he and I left Kim on anchor watch and took a dinghy cruise across Harney Channel to the Orca Island ferry landing store for “provisions.” (Thankfully, Scotland imports one of their tastiest adult beverages to that store. Who knew?) Unfortunately, the next two days were “very windy” with rain and much to Blake’s disappointment, we sat and watched white caps roll by Sundown rather than going out on the water. But when the U.S. Coast Guard announces to all mariners to stay in port, one should heed their warning. Those are the days we’re glad we have board and card games to keep us entertained.
When we finally put Blake on the ferry headed to Anacortes from the Shaw Island landing, we were sad to see him go. We really loved having him with us as he’s an able sailor and one of our favorite people! (Love you, Wills!)
To Roche, Stuart and beyond…
After his departure, we headed out to Roche Harbor and Garrison Bay on San Juan Island to meet up with Bob, Sandy and Trixie from s/v Jackpot, a Bob Perry designed 41′ Cheoy Lee sloop. We dropped the hook in Garrison Bay at the National Monument English Camp.
In the late 1800s, San Juan Island had two military outposts on opposing shores, the English Camp and the American Camp. The two countries were trying to decide which one would claim the San Juan Islands as their own. Apparently, the British Marines were very well funded and chose an excellent location for a camp that had been previously inhabited by First Nation tribes for over a thousand years. It was beautiful in a stately, Old English sort of way. My dad would have loved it!
During the next few days, we spent some time in Roche Harbor listening to Celtic music played at a kind of musical rendezvous. It was awe inspiring to listen to the mesmerizing, complex reels that the musicians knew by heart. We also enjoyed meeting Daryl and Heather (friends of Bob and Sandy) and having dinner on their large steel cruiser that’s decked out in attractive modern décor. Actually, their cockpit looks a bit like the Starship Enterprise. Very impressive!
Then we moved over to Prevost Harbor on Stuart Island with Jackpot and her crew. We wanted to try out Reid Harbor on Stuart’s southwest side, but chose Prevost as it promised to offer better protection for predicted “very windy” weather that came to pass. It didn’t stop us from getting off our boats and hiking the island, though. We hiked to the Turn Point Lighthouse, the school, library and museum, and through the woods where we found a crop of Swamp Lanterns—beautiful!
Flippin’ dinghy!
After returning from one of our hikes, Bob and I were sitting in Jackpot’s cockpit when a gust of wind picked up our dinghy Lightfoot, motor and all, and flipped it into the bay. Bob and I quickly jumped into his dinghy and grabbed ours as it was stilled tied along side. We quickly righted it and I figured I should at least try to see if our little Honda outboard would start after being submerged in salt water for at least a couple of minutes. I choked the engine and after a half dozen pulls, she tried to start. After a couple more pulls, she started up and kept running. Let’s hear it for Honda! I went for a little ride downwind to try to recover a quart of oil and our brand new hand bilge pump that were dumped out when Lightfoot flipped, but only found the oil can. Lesson learned: secure anything you don’t want to lose. The Honda outboard got a fresh water rinse and continues to run great.
Jone’s Island and its north bay, one of our favorite spots, was our next stop. We sailed there the day after the storm. While Kim went running, I helped Bob and Sandy broadcast to the whole bay their new music CD over Bob’s big speakers. That was fun!
How much technology will it take?
Kim and I are tackling some technology issues that cause us to strategically choose destinations based on her work. Basically, we need to have better connectivity via cell and/or WiFi. When we go to Canada, our current AT&T plan is unreasonably expensive, so we are researching another option with T-Mobile. We’ve never used this service provider, but it seems more user friendly for crossing the border. Of course, the further north you go the less coverage there is and the towns that may or may not have WiFi available eventually disappear for a period of time. When we get to these areas and when we are just simply out of cell range, we are looking at a satellite plan. Unfortunately, what we can afford is comparable to a 9600 baud modem, for you computer geeks who remember that speed. So, if anyone has recommendations for keeping Kim connected, let us know.
I’d still like to learn how you get your potable water and what you do with sewer stuff. If it’s like an RV you must have holding tanks. I’m hoping that’s how it’s done. If not, remind me never to swim in your wake!!
We have two 50-gallon fresh water tanks which we fill whenever we fuel up. There’s almost always water at fuel docks for that purpose. We filter the water as it’s going into the tanks and we have another sink water filter. Clay’s also come up with with a nifty way to collect and filter rain water. We’ll tell you all about it in an upcoming post. “Black water” is stored in a holding tank until you get to a marina with a pump-out station (most have them). You also are allowed to discharge black water overboard three or more miles off shore. The water’s deep and current is strong. You wouldn’t be swimming there by choice. 😉
Some folks i ‘know’ on YT travel so much that they buy Sim cards for different countries, and use the Wi-Fi “hotspot” option. They also buy a set amount of Gbs depending how long they’ll be ‘in country’. Not the best option, but any kind of Satellite link is terrible. I have been thinking of you, and guests, spending a temperate Winter out there. Wise to trust the Noaa WX folks for the forecasts. On the 21st, we had 8″ of snow, the first in awhile. I had to call the Ambulance as my heart was hitting 145+. Couple days a-bed in town, only a month after 3 stents at Bangor. (That was a close call friends.) Seems heart surgery has gotten a LOT more expensive, but I’m with an attentive, and ground-breaking team. My GP could use some more classroom time though. Hope all else is well, and warmth will get to you before us probably; though it has been a remarkably brown Winter. My best to all that remember Maine. Cheers!
=Maine=